The free-mo standards require that all turnouts be able to be operated from both sides.  The builder of a module may implement any solution, including hand throw, mechanical, or motorized turnout control.  This article describes how David Keith used New River Rail "Blue Point" turnout controls on some of his Sn2 Free-mo modules.

Key points of Dave's Installation:

• Recessed Controls - To avoid bumping, bending, breaking the control knob and rod by operators and viewers

• Low cost control, rather than expensive airplane rods

• Easy to implement with basic tools.  The only fancy tools is a 1.5" diameter hole drill (saw).

The image above shows the whole implementation.  Notes about this installation

• In this case, the fascia was 3/4" plywood.

• The throw rod is coat hanger form the cleaners (just fit through the holes in the blue point.

• The track was parallel to the fascia on both sides so linear rod is easy to use.

• This rod was offset by 1/2" (on accident).  The "offset spacer" is styrene tubing to keep the rod from sliding side to side.  Offsets can be very useful in cases where multiple turnouts to be controlled in tight spaces (such as a yard). 

• In the case were an offset is not required,  the offset spacer would not be required either, and the throw rod would be bent 90 degrees at the connection point with the Blue Point.

• To keep the rod from pulling out of the blue point, I use a styrene cap (you may have another option).  It's a piece of styrene tube glued on the end of the rod with ACC.  I just dab the glue on the very end.  If I need to remove the cap, I sand or grind the glue off (been done, so works).

• Drilling the 1.5" hole is "hard" on drills.  I recommend using a corded drill rather than a batter drill (I even have a 20V Lithium power drill, and it did not like drilling the large holes).

As mentioned, free-mo requires control from both sides of a module.  Above, it is easy to see that Blue Points are designed to be controlled from both sides.

The knobs on my throws are wood spools available at craft stores (Micheal's or Joanne Fabrics is where I found mine).  I like the spool because it is still small, but provides just the right "lip" to grab hold with ones fingers.

The image above shows an installation where 1/8" masonite fascia is used.  In such a case, 1/2" plywood or left over 1x3" dimensional lumber (actually preferred, as it is softer and easier to drill through)  is glued to the back of the fascia before drilling the 1.5" hole.  Then a 1/8" back plate is added behind the depth block.

Blue points are easiest to install on a plywood (or wood) sub roadbed of about 1/2".  However, many modules use foam only, without a sub roadbed.  Above images show a 1/8" masonite panel used to install a tortoise machine.  I'd expect that to work with blue points too.  The challenge is routing the rod through the foam to the fascia.  CAUTION:  Heavy handed operators pushing on a stiff rod, may work the mounting plate loose in the foam.  For foam installations, it may be preferred to used a flexible control rod.

Good Luck!

David Keith....